Hey Y'all, it's been a while, not so much into blogging these days. Too busy cranking out FA's and learning a new video editing program along with a new macbook pro. So check out my new life on Vimeo, here are my recents vids to give you an idea of what I've been up to for the last 6 months.
Just follow this link to my Shibidaang Vimeo page.
http://vimeo.com/user10764547
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Joes Valley Guide Book
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The Long Awaited Joe's Valley guide is nearly here just a couple more days, Check out the exciting photos and samples here at joesvalleyguidebook.com
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Last days in Bishop
The last three weeks have flown by with the speed of light and good weather has come and gone. On my last day I tried desperately to make away with a quick ascent of an old Dave Graham masterpiece we eyed down together 8 years back, Maze of Death V12. This is one of the most astounding little piece of rock although it is extremely sharp, the movement and beautiful colors make it all worth it in the end. Here is a small clip of my last attempts in the scorching heat of may in Bishop.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Making the Send
Ohh yes!! The Day has arrived for one of my biggest goals to go down! Ambrosia, the epidemy of highball bouldering. With difficult moves, precision technique and a extremely committing top-out, Ambrosia has it all. Ever since I heard about Kevin Jorgeson making the F.A. I made it a point to have my way with this amazing line. After a few days of work, sussing the sketchy finishing moves on TR, and rounding up a massive slew of 6 pads hahaha! I made the 3rd ascent. Im so relieved, for Ambrosia has been in my mind for a long time and now I have made a dream become reality. I give the biggest props to Kevin for visualizing and succeeding on the F.A. As well as my good friend Wills for belaying and spotting me, and Laura for the great film job!
Thursday, March 4, 2010
DPM Euro Vacation Article Is Up!
Have a peep see at the latest issue of Dead Point Magazine. A journal/photo essay from the Euro crews trip this past year is up! Pages 30-45 Peep it!! http://edition.pagesuite-professional.co.uk/launch.aspx?referral=other&pnum=0&refresh=zZ190t5S41By&EID=594323ae-e408-49b9-b9b2-b696b9451427&skip=&p=0
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Dug deep From the footage Archive!
A small collaboration of various video's from various times, capturing some of the smaller gems of Utah, and releasing for the first time in a theater near you!! Enjoy
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Ninja Skills!
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Yes this is one of the most creative film teasers on the web from none other than my good friend Philippe Ribiere's. One of the most inspiring climbers i've ever known.
http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/2010/01/evolution-tour-first-teaser-by-oldcasa.html
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Check it Out!
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For all of you who haven't seen the new video trailer from last years 2 month killing spree in southern Utah, Starring Paul Robinson, Jon Cardwell, David Graham, Daniel Woods, Seth Giles, myself along with many others. You need to check it out here at http://desertratpro.com/leashless.html
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Spanish Style!
Recently out the game from the French connection, we have found ourselves deep in the heart of Catalunian Spice(a.k.a. Spanish climbing hot spot) First off was a brief encounter with the notorious Suirana. A lil Petzl shindig, tis what brought us to here, also an amazing collaberation of some of the worlds strongest climbers. After one week in Suirana, bad weather, and a elephant crumbling sickness. It was time to depart towards our new home for the next 2 months, Las Avellanes.
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Once arrived in Las Avellanes, we made ourselves comfortable with our new host Albert Gine!!
The coolest lil spanish man ever with some sick dance moves!! A hop skip and a jump down the road is the massive cuevo of Santa Linya. This one cave itself has more 5.14+ routes than any other crag in the world that I know off. Jon and Dave have spent many of days here in Santa Linya, thus it is not our main focus even though its within 5 minutes from our house. Jon threw together some rapid ascents of 2 8c+ routes and 1 8c within a few days of work, pictured below is Jon racing towards the anchor of Fabela(8c+) just prior to him being engulfed into the darkness of the sunset.
As time has past, seasons change, leafs have fallen but still to our dismay the heat just wont go away!! We now have a new member to the family of Albert and we are all very excited about the new pup Rocco, unfortunately Pichu the cat is not so welcoming to Rocco yet??
There is some laughs to be had with the dynamic duo of cat and dog around the house, constant confrontation at the strangest of times. All this animal interaction, definitely makes me miss me lil pup Sage back home, so psyched to see her.
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Apart from climbing day in day out, we have been lucky enough to get out and explore the amazing landscape of the Noguera sector of Catalunya, searching for future crags and i tell ya there is no stop to future development of sport climbing in Spain... OH Brrother!!!
The last month has been consumed by chasing the shade and evading the heat which has brought us to gorgeous valley of Margelef. This place is absolutely stunning, with massive overhangs on conglomerate rock this area reminds a lot of my home crag of Maple Canyon but on steroids hehhe. Lots of pockets!! Sharp, small, incut pockets. I like!!!
Punting once again at the last move 8a+ onsight attempt
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One of these days I hope to get into a route groove, this trip has taught me a lot about my weaknesses in route climbing and climbing with Jon and Dave has totally inspired me to stay strong in both bouldering and sport climbing.
Dave on entering the heinous pocket stabbing crux of Victima del Passat(8c/8c+)
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From afar the rock here in Margelef look like shear limestone walls, but once close the eyes begin to catch glimpses of wee little cobbles and pockets, at first i wasn't so keen due to its resemblance of Maple Canyon, I was like eeehhhh! cobbles are cool but i grew up climbing with cobbles and I more or less want to climb something new and different. Now I can't contain my excitement for the days we spend climbing in Margelef, and in the end its nothing like Maple Canyon.
Once again a jaw-dropping evening as the sun leaves us in the shadow of the short steep routes of the Labratory.
Cutting my fingers on 24Hour Party People(8c+) Labratory, Margalef
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A classic First ascent of Dave G. 2008.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Cote D'Azur
Southern France is where we be, and the Cote D' Azur is where we roam! By night we get lost in a labyrinth of nightclubs, bars, and ancient design. By day we search out the most inspiring limestone along with prime temperatures that seem not to exist in the south of France, where it has taken us to next is the wee village of Carros. Rumored to have an amazing style and natural holds, this new destination has stretched out our stay here in the south.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Flashback!
Fionnay, what a magical place. A quick flashback from Switzerland, memories we all hang on to tightly, literally.
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Nice, France and the New crib
Nice, France not a bad place if I say so myself. Amazing rock, beautiful beaches, and very friendly people. We are currently staying about 10 min. from downtown Nice in a wee guesthouse aside our gracious friends Fred and Anne Otto. Their son Enzo is one of the most inspiring up and coming climbers in the world, Im talking he is 14 and climbing 9a(14d). Kid is ill strong here he is climbing on Abyss(9a) which in my opinion is the best looking route here in the Gorge Du Loup.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Game On!
Oh Boy, after the last couple months of hell weather and conditions, I have a feeling things are starting to change, like the season! yeahah so psyched for the fall temps to come into full affect.
Ceuse was beautiful and amazing but there is other fish to fry, thus we have ventured north into Switzerland to Zurich for a couple days. Dave had coordinated a presentation of our vid proj. at the swiss youth championships at one of the sickest climbing gyms in the world known as Klettern Zentrum, yah bub. Massive gym with huge world cup walls and bouldering, not to mention a very hospitable staff and crew of good peeps. Made some great connections for the film, experienced a wee bit about life in one of the richest cities in the world, good times.
The more distant crew, being Joe, Collette, Daniel and Courtney have been down in the southern region of France at an old historical climbing area just outside of Nice. Gorge Du Loup is their new stomping terrain and all we have heard from them is good things. After a brief stop in one of our favorite little towns Verbia for some relaxing/bouldering time, we busted down south to meet up with good friends.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
When will it End
Sooo Hot here at Ceuse the last couple of weeks, not sure what to do with myself sometimes, Being here at the most amazing climbing area in the world and not being able to try hard sucks!! aahahha!! The rock is naturally very slippery limestone with no texture, even with the slightest bit of humidity the friction becomes total shizz! On the other hand the video project is steadily moving on, I can't believe we have been in Europe now for 2 months time has just flown by and we will be soon leaving Ceuse for there is other fish to fry. I'm talking Gorge de Loup, Gorge De Tarn, Margelef and Oliana in Spain, oh and did I mention Switzerland. We actually leave for Suisse on the 5th of Sept. Dave has a big event he must perform along with a lecture on the what abouts of our current video trip we are creating.
The time has also come now to decide whether or not leave back to the states Sept. 18 as opposed to staying till January 10th?? Decisions, decisions.
As far as climbing goes we have all been making do, due to the heat that is. Jon as always is looking very solid on everything he tickles crushing everything in sight. Seth is getting in a steady flow of running the camera along with the crew, all the logistics of filming and capturing footage onto the hard drives is a lot more than we bargained for, considering we have been camping for over a month with little or no electricity.
Dave is back in the game with a strong foot, and more psyche than ever, he races to the crag everyday to a new musical mix created the night prior.
As for myself, just waiting for good temps to arrive so the killing spree can begin. I've gone through all the classic routes along with many repeats of the most choice lines but for now I can only wait, wait, wait, oh and maybe drink a lil bit EHEH!
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Ceuse
So I'm here in Ceuse now for two weeks or so? losing track of the days and hopefully not my mind. There is a lot going on between all the hiking, climbing, video shizz and partying like rock stars hehe! So here is a quick slideshow of some good times at Ceuse. I cant believe how amazing this place is everyone must come and experience it here.
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